Catching up....
It has been a while since I last updated you and a lot has happened. The reason for the delay is both Fred and I caught colds, which between the two of us lasted about two weeks. Thankfully for us we were healthy over the four-day Thanksgiving weekend, so we packed up our bag and departed Nice, France for Florence, Italy by train.
We decided to take the early morning train so that we could enjoy the daylight and take in the countryside views. My experience on trains had been limited to the Cal Train in San Francisco and the train in France was very similar; however once we arrived at the train station in Milan I found out what a real train can be like when the government makes transportation a priority and uses modern technology. The train from Milan to Florence was a bullet train which traveled 300km an hour.
I could not tell that I was even sitting on a train because the ride was so smooth. Our train trip took eight hours (we changed trains twice), but with all the countryside and spectacular views to me time flew by so quickly. We arrived in Florence in the mid-afternoon and found our way to the apartment we had rented for the weekend.
The apartment was a 9-minute walk from the train station and within walking distance of everything. If we ever return to visit we will be sure and look into seeing if it is available. The owner, Signora Pezzati, lives across the street and was so kind. If you’re looking for a place to stay in Florence, check out her website, http://www.soggiornopezzati.it/.
After settling in and getting unpacked we decided to walk around to get familiar with where we were staying and find a place to have dinner. We stumbled upon the Ristorante La Lampara, an establishment that had been open since 1954. Fred and I both thought that if it had been in business for 56 years they must be doing something right. The dinner was delicious. I had a ravioli dish with the most amazing tomato sauce I had ever experienced, and Fred had pizza that was packed full of flavors. Fred ordered a half liter of wine and I my usual H2O, but soon found that my sampling of his wine ended up being a full glass or two. I usually do not enjoy the taste of wines but when a can of Coca Cola costs more than a half liter of wine I will try anything! After dinner we walked back along the cobblestone street and found our building. It was now time to sleep, for the next two days would be packed with all the sightseeing two people could do in a short amount of time.
Pitti Palace
The following day we woke early, had a quick snack, and ventured off to the Pitti Palace. It was so amazing to see and read about the items and art within the palace, and the history alone was so intellectually stimulating. We went on one of the special tours of a few of the rooms not open fore the public to wander into unaccompanied. The most entertaining room was the Kings bathtub, which for years had gone undiscovered and was was being used as an office before the discovery. It was considered modern with running water. The Queen’s bathtub looked like a jacuzzi. It was about six times the size of the King’s. The steps of the Queen’s tub had hooks so that her bath her attendants could affix cloth containing essential oils to refresh her while bathing.
Each room had little doors for the servants to access the rooms and to go unnoticed in the hallways of the Palace. The King and Queen themselves would use hidden doors within their bedroom so they could avoid the hallway and possibly be seen by one of their guests.
Some of the rooms also contained what looked to be corner columns. Come to find out these were heaters used to heat the rooms during the winter. While most of the Palace today has been converted into an art museum many rooms retain the furnishings of those who once lived within the walls.
At times it was emotional to see pieces of art that have existed for hundreds of years through the good times and the bad. Just thinking of how paint can be as delicate as a human life: here one minute gone the next. But for some reason people of that time selected those specific pieces to treasure and keep out of harm’s way… it was truly an emotional experience for me. As was the thought of how many people are not as fortunate as I was to see these magnificent pieces of art up close and in person.
It brought back the memories of my high school art teacher, Ms. Rowntree, who educated us about, some of the finest artworks of history and how emotional she would get when lecturing about certain artworks she had seen. It took thirteen years for me to understand how an individual could have such a close relationship to art masterpieces,, and I am grateful and thankful for everyone who has made this once in a lifetime journey possible.
That night we decided to try a new restaurant, one that was close to the apartment. We had spent about six hours wandering around the Pitti Palace, so, tired and hungry, we stepped into I’ Brincello on Via Nazionale, just a few door away from Lamapara. Once though the door it was like we became part of a huge family. We were shown our table by Andrea, a very kind and handsome young man. Since we had not eaten all day we decided on ordering two appetizers, one being grilled eggplant and zucchini topped with melted brie cheese, and the other being bruschetta. For the first course Fred ordered an eggplant souffle and I ordered a meat pasta; and for the second course we both ordered chicken breast salad with balsamic glaze. I believe that night we spent about three hours in the restaurant watching the locals come in and interact with the staff, and the staff being attentive to everyone’s needs. Again it felt like we were part of a huge family.
One of the waiters, Matteo, was one of those guys you could tell did not do more than he had to do. It was not long before Fred picked up on the fact that his mother was the manager/owner, and after about the 10th time he said mama she mouthed something that made him even more slower LOL.
Day Three
This day was going to be the busiest there was two particular pieces of art that we wanted to see a.) David by Michelangelo and b.) The Birth of Venus by Botticelli, as well as a special cathedral Basilica di Santa Maria del Fiore that was recommended to me by a friend on Twitter. The David sculpture is located in the Accademia gallery of fine arts, and I was so thankful that we had decided to visit in the off season. Fred had told me that last time he had visited over thirty years ago their was a long line you waited in just to take a short glimpse of the masterpiece then you were shuffled along your way. Thankfully this time of year is the off season and we were able to spend as much time admiring the sculpture as we wanted to and from all the angles. To sum the David sculpture up in one word I would have to say breathtaking. As we entered the gallery, the first room was filled with paintings and then as you walk around the corner to the other room and look down the widened corridor you see the David sculpture standing alone, and the size alone is shocking.
While we did walk through and view the other pieces of centuries-old artwork, we were always drawn back to the statue of David. We wanted to get just one more look from this angle then another. I believe had we not had an agenda to accomplish we could have spent the entire day in its presence taking in the stunning masterpiece and the history of how it came to be.
From the Accademia, we departed for the Uffizi Gallery to get a view of the Birth of Venus. Walking along the Arno river looking into the shops was beautiful. The Uffizi Gallery was beautiful. Again I was so thankful that we visited during the off season. Although there was still quite a crowd at the Uffizi, we were able to take our time wandering from room to room in all the pieces of art. Then you walk into the room and it has the largest crowd, and off to the left you see this massive painting and it draws you closer by its mammoth size and there she is: The Birth of Venus.
I was in awe, mesmerized. It drew me in closer. Fred had warned me that she is bigger than what I would think. And again I thought back to my high school art lessons when we would either have to study paintings from a small picture in a text book or an 8x10 copy. It was like at that moment things were coming full circle. I had gone from being a kid growing up in a community with less than one thousand people along with being a closeted gay male till I was in my late 20’s, to being diagnosed with a rare immune disease that could kill me at any time, thinking I would never get to travel or see the world, to finding love when I was not looking for it, to moving from Ohio to California to be with the man of my dreams then being engaged, and now I was standing in Florence within arm’s reach of some of the world’s greatest masterpieces.
Jeffrey, you were right when you said “It's really romantic, so get ready for that! And get ready to cry at the museums. So moving.” Thank you, Jeffrey, for all your advice. As my husbear and I were sitting in the café drinking our cappuccino and eating some pastries, you were in my thoughts. Although we have never met in person and only conversed though social media I wanted to say how much of an amazing, strong, courageous, and supportive man you are; and I hope that when or if I ever have to face adversity again I can draw upon your words of courage from this last year to get me though to the other side.
I would also like to thank Fred’s boss, Phil; Phil, you are an amazing friend and business man. When we told you about our plans, the only concern you had was “Will there be internet?” Without the workplace being all virtual unlike a few years ago this trip would have never been what it has been or will be!
To my partner’s mother, thank you for the generous gift. What you have given me is something I truly do not think I could have ever dreamed of.
To my parents, thank you for always supporting me and helping me along the way. I hope I have made you proud of who I am today.
And last but not least but most important thank you, Fred, my husbear, you are the air in my lungs. Without you in my life I truly do not think I would be on this earth. You have forever changed my life and I am so grateful for being a part and sharing in your life. I love you with every ounce of my being today, tomorrow, and forever.
See all our travel pics on Fred’s Flickr. The photo sets are here: http://www.flickr.com/photos/sf-fred/sets/
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